Three weeks ago, I did my first Cactus to Clouds summit with Cy Kaicener and Yicchus showing the way to the tram. It was a leisurely pace of 8 hours to the tram and I was easily able to go to the SJ summit alone after leaving Cy at the tram. I felt great afterwards, and hardly tired.
Today, I returned to do the Skyline Trail only to the Tram, by myself. I had decided I would try to set a "time to beat" for myself on the Skyline Trail. Big mistake.
The first four hours were great. However, somewhere around Flat Rock (just before the really steep part), I hit the wall. The last two hours of almost straight up trail climbing with increasing altitude, were very rough. I stopped frequently. In the end, it took me six hours to get to the Tram but I paid the price as I was extremely tired. The exertion was extreme. There is no way I could have continued to the SJ summit and back. As I write this from home, I'm more tired than I can recall from any hiking trips in quite some time.
I mention this for the benefit of those who check this board regularly and are considering attempting this trail. The reputation of the Skyline Trail is fearsome. However, on the right day, at the right pace, with the right weather, it is doable for those with good hiking experience and in excellent condition. My two hikes demonstrate the right and wrong way to hike this trail. A reasonable "pace" is absolutely key to success; I had forgotten how important the correct pace is.
If you are reading this and considering attempting this trail over the Thanksgiving holiday, contact Cy; he is going up Saturday morning early. His pace is absolutely excellent, the conversation is great and his experience will help you. Do not become impatient with the slower pace as it will see you through to success in comfortably reaching the peak and back to the tram. In addition, he knows the trail well. Today, I found myself very fatigued and yet having to concentrate hard on trail following in the sketchy, steep, top section, a far cry from just following Cy three weeks ago.
Further advice to first timers, in addition to hiking with a trail veteran like Cy, would be to have sufficient long hike experience and be currently in very good shape. I am 50 and in the last three years have hiked SJ from Idllywild about 22 times, hiked San Gorgonio from Vivian Creek about 7 times, done the Mt. Whitney day hike the last two years, and spent a few nights on the JMT around Mammoth. If you can do San Gorgonio from Vivian Creek or the Whitney day hike with a smile on your face at the end of the day and not much fatigue, you should be fine for Skyline, provided you are current on your conditioning.
The weather today was perfect with mild temperatures and a sun that stayed in the high clouds. No wind on the trail (although it was strong at the Tram) and absolutely not one person on the trail. If you have been thinking about trying Skyline, I would highly recommend it with weather like today's, if you do it with a trail veteran, and meet the other criteria above. You'll do fine and the feeling of accomplishment is huge.
I'm off to the hot tub to soak my aching body and next time I'll treat the Skyline trail with more respect and take care to set a comfortable pace.