Winter Ascent

[alleyehave]

Hey guys, looking to do a first winter ascent of a local mountain. Would you recommend Mt. Baldy or San Jacinto? Which route? What time of year? I'm basically ignorant to Winter mountaineering so any info would be greatly appreciated. I know its pretty early, but never to early to be prepared

Thanks,
Nate

[Perry]

Tram to SJ peak is not too steep if you are good at navigating to the Miller saddle going up and also coming back down. That said, you can still get injured as Ellen did this past winter. She got lost and slipped on the north face of Miller Peak. The east face of San J can also be steeper than some are comfortable with, and an ice axe is usually a good idea if you take the most direct route. Even that face can have avalanches after a really big storm, hence the lack of trees in that area. But usually it is less dangerous than most other popular mountaineering routes (Whitney MR, Hood SS, Rainier DC, etc).

I'm guessing that Baldy is steeper, and it's definitely more climbing from Baldy Village or Manker Flats. Starting at the top of the ski lifts, Devil's Backbone would be more technical than San J from Tram. The trail even scares some people in the summer time.

[KathyW]

Either San Jacinto from the tram or Baldy from Manker Flats via the Bowl.

Although Baldy is more elevation gain than San Jacinto, it takes me about the same amount of time in the winter to get up either. Baldy is less miles and the path is often beaten - it's rare that you would use snowshoes on Baldy via the Bowl in the winter. San Jacinto is more miles and you often need to use snowshoes after Round Valley if you go that way or before Tamarack Valley if you go that way.

Baldy via the Bowl is more often an ice axe/crampon route and San Jacinto via the Tram is more often a snowshoes/hiking poles route.

It's not a good idea to do Baldy via the Devil's Backbone in the winter - I've seen what that route can be like when there's an accumulation of snow and ice - it's not something you want to deal with on your first winter ascent of a mountain.

Another option up Baldy in the winter is Register Ridge.

Also, don't try it for the first time when people are reporting icy conditions.

I like to do both San Jacinto and Baldy at least once in the winter. Last winter I missed Baldy, so I'm looking forward to this winter if we get some snow.

[alleyehave]

So I take it Baldy Bowl would be a good place to practice ice axe/crampon use and self-arrest technique? Are there organizations or guide services that offer classes or 1-on-1 time? Or an experienced individual here willing to do the same with compensation?

Thanks again and take care...

[mike joe]

I did Devil's Slide in the winter a few years ago. It's not super challenging but we did need crampons at certain points as the trail ices over when you get to a certain altitude. Also, bring snow shoes in case you hadn't already planned to (not sure how ignorant you are). We didn't do any peaks. Just brought plastic sleds and had a fun weekend trip in the snow