The Trough, Tahquitz Rock

[greatshaitan]

Not a lot of Climbing trip reports on here, but since this forum is where i got my start, I shall post here

A couple months ago I decided I wanted to climb the Trough, a 5.4 on Tahquitz (Lily) rock. I have climbed all over SoCal, but never at Suicide or Tahquitz. Two of my buddies came along for the fun, Les and Tony. High 30s when we set off with a 20% chance of rain. Let's make this one quick . Les would end up free soloing the route while Tony and I roped up and did it all traditional style.

We combined pitch 1 and 2 with Les pointing out the direction to go and good belay locations. I lead this first pitch.


Belay at top of first pitch.


Looking back down.


The rock was still wet from the recent rains a few days ago and definitely made for a few slippery moves. Tony had the most fun as he lead the water/moss filled pitch 3.


Top of pitch 3-Pine Tree Ledge.


Final pitch was quite fun and I run it out, well...not as run out as Mr. Free Solo, but still run out for me.


Top of the Trough! Then back down to Aroma Cafe for some tasty beverages and the Extreme Hotdog with Chili and Tater tots. The waitress said if I could eat the entire thing I would get my beer paid for.... Guess who got a free beer

[sdtrackrunner]

Nice. Have you done Angel's Fright (5.6) just to the right of this route? Vastly better climbing I think, good gear opportunities, and feels more solid/higher quality in general.

[Ellen]

Howdy GreatShaitan

NICE!!! My rock climbing is limited to scrambling up the rocks to the tram after Skyline I am vicariously enjoying your climbs from the safety of my home office

Miles of smiles,
Ellen

[Ulysses]

Nice pictures. Amazing that you're climbing Lily Rock in December.

Is The Trough where Luke Dunn had his accident and another climber was seriously injured by falling rock in 2013?

[Ed]

I would be interested in knowing where you found a rating of 5.4 for the Trough. I know there has been an inflation of ratings for both Tahquitz and the Sierras since the 1970's, when and why it occurred I don't know, but 5.4 still seems a bit high for the Trough. In the 1970's, the Trough itself was 5.0, the Frightful Variation of the Trough was a point or two higher, the White Maiden 5.1, the Fingertip Traverse 5.3, and Angel's Fright 5.4. In the Sierras, the East Face of Whitney was 5.4 taking the Fresh Air Traverse, which is the normal option, and the Swiss Arete on Mt. Sill was 5.4. These were the ratings in the guidebooks, they all seemed like fair ratings at the time, and climbing equipment has improved since then, as have the standards of the best climbers. It is a puzzle to me why ratings have increased.

[neverwashasbeen]

Interesting queston by Ed. I'll make a SWAG on this and consider the possibility that the other "Trough" which was rated 5.4 in the 70's, could be the source of the rating change, or in this case, switch. That climb of course being at Big Rock. I can't prove it, but it's fun to speculate.

[Norris]

Uh-oh, mtsanjacinto.info is becoming like mountainproject or something, with people starting debates about ratings
The fact of the matter is that when you invent a new ratings system starting with 5.0 (as the first ascent party of this route did) and the universe of climbs to be rated has a size of exactly one (this was their first route on Tahquitz, White Maiden was the second I believe) then you quite naturally rate it 5.0, and when the second route (White Maiden) seems a bit stiffer, you quite naturally rate that one a notch higher (5.1 was the original rating for White Maiden, I think). But many decades later, after climbs all over the country have been factored in, it makes sense that the rating would settle out at a different number. Ratings are not static, they are a consensus number. Hence the current rating of 5.4 for The Trough. Seems reasonable to me.

[towbradley]

wow, nice report and pic's. always wondered what it looked like from that advantage point, and now I know. wont ever be able to climb....knees are blowing out, especially the right one again, but you're (and every one elses ) tr's and stories breath life into my mind's eye. once again, thanks for your story.

[Ed]

Norris,

The decimal rating system, which was a decimalization of the Class 5 part of the Sierra Club rating system, was created at Tahquitz in the 1950's by members of the Rock Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, with Royal Robbins being one of the creators (it's in his autobiography, and he seems quite proud of it). People were climbing at a very high level at the time, and had been doing classics in the Sierras since the 1930's, so they were able to compare both a large number and large range of climbs. While ratings are necessarily subjective, they had all the experience in the world, and there was nothing ad hoc about it. The system was quickly accepted in Yosemite and worldwide, but the original ratings at Tahquitz were the standard against which other climbs were measured. Hence my puzzlement at why the ratings have changed. I've done lower-rated climbs that were more difficult for me than higher-rated ones, because the crux move was a type that was more difficult for me personally, but that is no reason for me to disrespect the ratings. They were done by vastly better and vastly more experienced climbers than ones like me.

And by the way, when the ratings were done, there were no kernmantle ropes, climbing harnesses, helmets, belay-rappel devices, or gummy-soled rock climbing shoes. So the climbs were certainly not easier or safer then. If anything, it was the opposite.

[greatshaitan]

Ed,

Those guys back in the 50s-70s were the hardmen, the crazy stuff they did with the limited gear is awe-inspiring. And this route was the original 5.0 as you mention. Climbing grades are like beer judging, very subjective. For instance, The Trough at Big rock I found to be much easier then the trough at Tahquitz. Big Rock Trough = 5.5, but I love slabby stuff. I have climbed 5.7s in other locations that are were easier to me then the 5.4 The Bong in Joshua Tree. Rating are very strange indeed. Also climbs change over time. One hold can break that dramatically changes a route. Could it be just climbing grade inflation? Quite possibly, but ratings aside, the climb was great fun, highly recommended, highly protectable and plan to climb it again. To quote Alex Lowe, "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!"

Cheers!
Eric