Cactus to Clouds

[aoconnell1]

I’ve wanted to hike this old lady for close to a year. I had thought about doing it last week (Saturday April 26th) Upon calling the Long Valley Ranger Station I was told a storm had just brought snow and ice onto the top. I was not going to be lugging ice gear up this one.

Instead waited for a week, we had huge Santa Ana’s that came through and brought 90+ weather, thawing everything out.

Cactus to Clouds was waiting!

Decided to do the museum trail, everything I read said it was steeper and shorter than parking off Ramon Road. I figured we shouldn’t cut to the chase. We parked in the lot directly across the street from the museum labeled “Free Parking”. It was odd getting ready in a parking lot, not a dusty trailhead in the middle of nowhere.

We left the car at 2:45 and from here walked across the street to the museum, trailhead is on the right when looking at the museum. It started right away, pretty steep but easy to follow a bunch of switchbacks. The initial trail was easy to follow, no getting lost like I kept hearing about. As we climbed the trail became a bit more difficult to follow. Added onto this was Palm Springs lit up the night, our eyes never quite adjusted to the dark moonless night due to this heavy background light. I had a headlamp and we carried on.

After the initial switchbacks the trail got a bit more difficult to follow. We noticed white spray paint dots on the rocks, every 20 feet. While these were helpful, guess what is also white and dotted on the rocks?

Bird Poop!

I can’t tell you the amount of times, I had to get right up close to the rocks with my headlamp and occasionally do a touch test. If it feels like wet paint, it’s not a trail marker. I can’t believe there isn’t another color, it would make navigating at night infinitely easier.

We got lost a couple times, but quickly knew because the markings were so frequent. Only once did we have to hike up really steep terrain to make it back to the trail. Just follow your nose if you get lost and you should make it back up to the trail just fine.

We finally reached the picnic tables at approx. 1 hour, nothing special but I knew with difficulty finding the trail we had lost a bit of time. From the picnic tables everything I heard said the trail was easy to find.

We hiked for about 15 minutes and hit the painted rock. This just gives the caution that no water is available for 10 hours and 8 miles, lays out the daunting task ahead.

From the painted rock it was 50 minutes to “Rescue One”. Now this is a very small station, be sure to keep your eyes peeled to see this one. By this point we had started to see sunlight, it was getting warm this was no bueno. We trekked on, able to see much better with more light coming in.

At 4 hours into the hike, it was clear as day out and we stopped in a bit of open space for a break. Just off the left of the trail was the 4300 ft marker. Very easy to miss, but this was a relief to know we were going the right way. This mountain just keeps climbing.

We kept moving on, picking people off right and left. It was important to balance the pace. At one end I wanted to stop every 5 minutes and take a break, the other end was I wanted to get out of this heat, it was completely exposed to the full sun.

We saw quite a few groups that were just sitting, sweating and looked like they were finally realizing how poor of an idea this was.
.

After the 4300 marker we kept onward. We could see Coffman’s Crag, this was where we needed to be. The map we used showed a few different sections, Flat Rock/Dry Falls, The Traverse, Coffman’s Crag. Honestly we grouped these landmarks all together and just kept moving.

The scenery was changing so quickly we went from cactus, rocks and dirt, to brown dying bushes, to green bushes, to giant pine forests. The hike up to the Crag was getting steeper and steeper and more exposed. Not a good place to fall. However it was also very sheltered from the sun with the giant pine trees providing support.

We passed a ranger who was walking down. He asked about a group we had seen earlier. While they were not in distress, never asked for help, and had water, they were sitting on the rocks, realizing the full realm of this hike. The whole part about not being able to turn around, really holds true. Turn around and you have to climb down steep terrain and walk into a desert oven. After the Ranger we kept hiking and got to the top of the Crag. We didn’t stop for too long, knowing we had to reach the Hallelujah Rocks. This would also be the steepest part of this hike. We knew it would be short and sweet and just plowed through.

Finally reached the Hallelujah Rocks at 7 hours 32 minutes. For being on a 10-hour trajectory, sub 8 hour was fantastic news.

From here it is about a 10minute walk to the ranger station. Most importantly the Ranger Station has a water refill station. You also get the free permits from the rangers, for the hike to the clouds “Mt. San Jacinto”. We stopped here for a good bit, ate a sandwich, talked to the rangers. They were sending more help down for the hiker party of 6.

Once finished up, we started on the 6 mile trip to the top of San Jacinto. From here it was about 11:15 and it seemed like every Tom, Dick and Harry was out on the trail. After the climbing we had just done, this was a simple task.

The terrain was much more gradual, nice and easy to follow. It doesn’t hurt to grab a map from the rangers to make sure you don’t stray. The entire hike is through giant pine tress, with a nice breeze, this was infinitely better than the sun baked, no shade, climb to the tram we had just done. We ran into a few patches of snow, although nothing major. I can see how difficult it would be to find the trail if snow covered the ground. The pine tree forest could be easy to get lost in.

We hiked for 2 hours 40 minutes. Easy hike, a few switchbacks but nothing major. A bit of scrambling and we were at the top. Look for the shack and just go straight up from there. From the summit, you have incredible views, definitely worth it. It would be really cool to be there at sunset. We spend a solid hour on the summit. I’m used to the Colorado 14ers where it’s best to bag the summit and then get off.

After finishing off nutrition, water, pictures and just relaxing on the cloudless bluebird day, we decided to head back to the tram.

After 20 minutes of hiking down with huge expansive views of the valley, we saw a SAR helicopter. There was no particular flight pattern, we both figured this was the rangers looking for the 6 hikers. I’m obsessed with helicopters and have a tendency to stop and stare. While the bird was in the air, I wasn’t a good hiking partner. This thing circled for about 30 minutes.

About 45 minutes later, halfway to the tram, we ran into a group of Chargers fans. They asked how much further, we went through the typical “you’re almost there” banter. I asked if they had seen the helicopter. One of the guys laughed and told me they thought it was their buddy. “Yea we lost him, but he ain’t gonna die.”

I thought they were joking but they were serious, I couldn’t believe they left their partner. I don’t know the circumstances, but I would feel miserable leaving a friend since I had summit fever, and never attempting to search for him.

From here we kept hiking and made the slog back, it’s always that last hour that catches up to you, gotta love the mountain hangover. We moved quickly and couldn’t wait for that tram ride to the bottom.

Finally reached the ranger station at 04:15 pm. Talked to the ranger, and the helicopter found the injured climber. We hiked the 10 minutes to the tram station. Bought our celebratory beer, terrible food though. It’s fun walking around seeing tourists loading up on fancy hats, t-shirts, stickers etc. I felt out of place while covered in dust, moving slow and having that coast to coast smile knowing we just licked the mountain.
The next part of the trip was the one that had been the mystery. How to get from the bottom of the tram to the car at the museum? This was a 7 miles distance. I talked to the tram ticket lady and she offered to call a cab. A $30 cab. There was no way after hiking since twilight I was going to go the easy route. We settled on the $12 tram ticket. While waiting in the loading area, we started talking to a nice looking couple. They were not heading in our direction, but upon asking why we needed a ride, were blown away that anyone would hike up instead of tram up. The tram ride down was amazing, no hustling and worrying about getting back. It was great seeing the sheer vertical rock faces and how far we had just hiked up.

We were dropped off at our car in 100 degree weather. I always love to see the car after a long day of hiking.

To summarize:
Transport
Getting there, park in the museum lot across the street labeled “free parking”.
Unless you’re a Grinch, it will be easy to hitch your way back to your car from the tram, people will love hearing your story.

Nutrition and Water
Water:
(3) 1.5L Bottles of Water. This got me from the base to the tram, with a bit extra to spare, don’t take any less.
(2) 1.5 L Bottles of Water. This got me from the tram to San Jacinto Peak and back.

Nutrition:
(2) Whole Meal Bar
(3) Bonk Breaker
(3) Cliff Shot Block
(2) Honeystinger Bar
(1) Basic fruit and nut bar
(10) GU gel packets
(3) Peanut Butter and Honey Sandwiches
(1) Victory apple

I know this seems like a lot of astronaut food and water to be lugging up a steep slope, I would rather carry that extra food and water and be safe. My buddy ran out of food and I was laughing the whole way down that he had to admit defeat and steal some of my stash. I can’t stress enough the importance to keep the engine going on this hike.

Physical Fitness
I’ll admit I was worried about this hike, it seems so daunting there is no way to really prepare for it. Where am I going to train and climb 8000 vertical feet? I would say just be in good overall shape, and know your limits. I run, and swim a lot and never felt I was in over my head on the hike. Get as early start possible, we started at 02:45 and should have started at 02:00, that desert sun is hot, you want as little exposure possible. They say this is so tough because there is no way to turn around if you get in trouble, which I agree with. Just don’t leave your wingman and you’ll be golden.

Long Valley Ranger Station
760.327.0222

Our Exact Times:
07:42 Base to Tram
05:49 Tram to Peak to Tram (This includes hanging on the summit for an hour)

Have fun

[cynthia23]

Nice well-detailed TR aoconnell. Congratulations.

[aoconnell1]

Yes, it was the same guy mentioned in the SAR report that had been airlifted off. He's really lucky he had a cellphone connection. The San Diego friends weren't sure if he had been hurt, their main concern was summiting.

This was a tough mountain, but not exactly a place where I would expect people to have summit fever like Everest, glad I wasn't hiking with them, never leave your wingman.

It would have been nice to hear how the post-airlift conversation went amongst all these "friends"

[Sally]

Congratulations, and thanks for a great TR aoconnell1! I bet you're glad you got an early start.

I'm dumbfounded by the "friends" who left that poor guy behind to get injured and lost.

[zippetydude]

Me too Sally. It's one thing if you're in Vegas and your friend gets drunk and stupid and wants to wreck the fun...leave him. But he's actually safe and is causing his own grief. In the wilderness, although lack of planning may have caused the problem, it's too late to fix that once the problem arises, and it is obviously life-threatening to abandon someone like that.

I'm guessing it's a ridiculous lack of understanding. In this thoroughly connected, high-tech society, it is assumed (by some) that there are no real dangers anymore. But the truth, as of course you know, that a situation can turn deadly in a heartbeat out in the wilderness. A couple of years ago a woman went missing up in the San G wilderness. Seems she wasn't going fast enough and her husband decided they could meet back up later. She lived, but had a rough couple of days. Even worse, a different group lost a boyscout, only he was never found. I still find that incredible. "Leave the slow kid behind. He makes it or he doesn't, that's his problem." How about, "No child left behind!" Crazy, foolish risks. I don't get it either. In the words of the prophet Ron White: You can't fix stupid.

z

[63ChevyII]

“Yea we lost him, but he ain’t gonna die.”

Who needs enemies when....

[cynthia23]

Wow. Just .... wow. But sadly, this isn't the first instance on Skyline in which 'friends' left lagging buddies behind, to make it or ... not. I know of at least two instances, one a large group hike in which the so-called 'leader' left behind a slower group (who later had to be rescued), and then, the infamous case a few years ago in which the 'friend' left his cramping, ill buddy and the guy then stumbled downhill and died of heat stroke near the bottom. But hey, the "important' thing is that the 'friend' successfully summited Skyline!

These people have sadly distorted notions of heroism and success. Real heroes take care of their friends, instead of obsessing on a piece of rock. Which, let's face it, is all this mountain is, in the end. Climbing it is not worth someone's life.

[Brian]

A few weeks ago I set out to do C2C with a local group of 12 hikers I knew. I had already did Skyline three times in the last few months in 7-8 hours, had done my conditioning hikes and felt ready to take the step up.

We started at 4:00 AM in good conditions. By the time I was past rescue Box #1 about 4,000' I knew I was not going to make it. The main group was already ahead of me and I was with two others in our group, trailing behind. I told my hiking buddy at the moment that I was done, done for the day. I was laying across the trail with nausea, vomited twice and slightly dizzy. I hadn't much sleep the night before and two beers didn't help.

I rented a room and car, took a day off from work to get down there, and knew it was time to retreat. Three people asked if I needed help getting off the mountain. I told them no. Go ahead, there are others coming up and if I need help I will ask others. I saw a few folks I've meet on prior Skylines and all asked if I needed help or water. I knew the problem, no sleep and beer.

I knew I was going to be okay as soon as I got some rest. After I made the decision to stop at 7:00 AM, I took measures to save myself. I found shade behind rocks and took naps as I progressed down Museum trail. I stopped at the picnic tables and sleep for about an hour. Many people passing me asked if I was okay. I would lift my head smile and nod yes. I got to the bottom at 11:00 AM. The lower trail is more confusing going down than up and the sun is blasting you in the face.

Since I stopped early in the morning I was able to find shade down, but as the sun rose over head on my descent I experienced the dangers of the trail. At some point you are in direct sun for the rest of the day. I started with 4-liters so I was fine. But not for my previous three Skyline hikes I may not have been so lucky to get myself off the rock. It was a learning experience and I am glad I was able to make the best of it. I have retreated from hikes before, and have lots of respect for others who know when to stop and come back another day!

I'm returning this weekend with another group to give it a second try, if I don't make it, I'll be back in October. This area has always attracted me because of ALL the extreme conditions. I hope others can learn from my experience. Turn back sooner than later, before calling the air-taxi.

[cynthia23]

You do know that the forecast on Saturday is for 94, right? If you again need to turn around, descending will be exceedingly unpleasant--at best. Why not wait until the fall?

[Brian]

NOAA's weather at www.weather.gov shows temps at 561 feet to be 65 degrees at 4AM rising to 80 degrees by 10AM This weekend should be okay.