Northern Yosemite Backpack 7/22 to 7/30 2013

[whitebark]

I just completed a nine day backpack in the Hoover Wilderness and northern part of Yosemite National Park. The fantastic Sierra scenery and a fun bunch of hiking buddies made this a great trip!

We started the hike at Twin Lakes near Bridgeport, CA. The trailhead for Robinson Creek is located in Mono Village Resort and you have to pay to park on their private land ($10 for a week). After we escaped the crowded resort campground, the setting along the trail became serene. Climbing an impressive canyon, the Robinson Ck trail passed Barney Lake, then at 8 miles reached Peeler Lake, a deep alpine lake located right on the Yosemite border. We camped just beyond the lakes outlet in strangely muggy and gloomy weather, very un-Sierra-like.


Barney Lake by whitebark, on Flickr


Day 2: We went cross country from Kerrick Meadow to the head waters of the West Walker River. Weather was weird - warm, muggy and cloudy. it drizzled all day. Camped at an impressive view spot below Ehrnbeck Peak.


Doug, upper Thompson Canyon. Hawksbeak Peak in distance by whitebark, on Flickr

Day 3: Much better weather. We continued cross country down the creek, passing some beautiful meadows. Getting to the Tower Lake trail proved to be a bit challenging as a sheer cliff blocked the way. We eventually found a break in the cliff and descended to the trail, then climbed to picturesque Tower Lake. After a long break, we ascended to the col below Tower Peak, then descended to camp near Mary Lake in Yosemite Park.


Mary Lake, Tilden Creek headwaters by whitebark, on Flickr

Day 4: This was a short cross country jaunt to Tilden Lake. Our energy was drained by hot muggy weather, and a vigorous thunderstorm broke just as we set up camp at 1.5 mile long Tilden Lake. What a beautiful spot even in a storm!


Day 4: Tilden Lake by whitebark, on Flickr



Day 5: In improving weather we headed down Tilden Canyon, then picked up the Pacific Crest Trail southbound, which climbed and dropped into some impressive granite-walled canyons. Met several thru-hikers which surprised me; aren't they supposed to be in Oregon just about now? We made camp in Kerrick Canyon, where we enjoyed the warm temps at only 8000'. It was a good time to take a dip in Rancheria Creek and get cleaned off.



Day 6 : We made a long slow ascent up Kerrick Canyon all the way to its headwaters at Rock Island Pass. Absolutely spectacular granite scenery the whole way. Nice sunny weather. Camped at a nice meadow below the pass.


Kerrick Meadows by whitebark, on Flickr


Day 7: Smoke from the Aspen Fire blew in during the night and the thick haze dimmed the views in the morning. Wheezing in the bad air, we climbed the rest of the way to Rock Island Pass, then dropped 600' into the headwaters of Robinson Creek. Then we huffed and puffed steeply upward once again to the alpine defile of 10,500' Mule Pass. Another steep descent took us into Slide Canyon where we found a nice camp along the creek.


Granite slab and Sawtooth Ridge by whitebark, on Flickr

Day 8: Very challenging. We continued along the trail to 10,700' Burro Pass. Beyond the pass we left the trail and went cross country to the col between Matterhorn Peak and Whorl Mountain. The col was tricky and we were barely able to find a safe route over this cliff-bound pass. Eventually we got over the col and camped at the head of Spiller Canyon.


Day 8: camp at head of Spiller Canyon, Yosemite Park by whitebark, on Flickr


Day 9: Chuck and I made a quick ascent of 12,200' Matterhorn Peak in the morning. The guide book said it was "easy class II" but we found the route a bit spooky on the last 150' - more like class III with some exposure. After descending back to camp, we headed over the rugged pass at the head of Spiller Canyon then descended into Horse Creek Canyon. The first mile was very rugged on boulders and snow, then an increasingly good user trails led us down the canyon. Somewhere in this canyon Jack Karouac in a failed attempt on Matterhorn Peak made camp in an incident described in his book "Dharma Bums". Drugged-out Dharma Bums pilgrims still keep looking for the spot.


Day 9: view from Matterhorn Peak by whitebark, on Flickr


The Horse Creek user trail eventually turned into a regular maintained trail which took us directly back to Twin Lakes.

Lots of pictures here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/72558696@N ... 878900055/

[Sally]

Thanks for a great TR, whitebark. I really enjoyed the pictures. You can easily see the evidence of glaciers in the area. Those slabs with remaining glacial polish are cool. Nice work on all that cross-country navigation!

Several years ago Backpacker magazine did an article on un-crowded trips in national parks, and did a write-up on a loop starting at Twin Lakes and, going counter-clockwise, made its way over to and up Matterhorn Canyon. I went so far as to make an itinerary for a trip, but I never got around to hiking it. You have rekindled my interest in doing this trip!

[Andy]

Absolutely stunning TR Whitebark, thank you. I love the mix of on and off trail routes. Just enough to keep that sense of adventure and surprise.

[lilbitmo]

On a cold Oct morning in 2004 a friend and I tried to hike from Mono Village/Twin Lakes/Robinson Creek Trail head to Barney Lake then on to Peeler Lake (there's two lakes in all the Sierra's that when completely full they drain both east and west, Peeler and Lake Confusion). I was so out of shape and smoked at the time that I could only make it to about a mile shy of Peeler Lake, I got so frustrated that upon returning from that fishing trip I quit smoking, started to hike as a means to stay healthy and lost 78 lbs within 4 months. I've been hiking ever since, so anytime I see a post about that area, that trail head I get goosebumps and it brings great joy to my heart, for had I not gone fishing and then attempted that hike I might be still smoking and just shy of 300 lbs.

Thanks for sharing that TR whitebark and all those great pictures, love that area.

I also have that same picture (the first one in your report) that shows the east approach to Barney Lake and whenever I look at it I get a great big grin on my face as that log is still there by the shore line.

Exactly one year later I hike to up to Peeler Lake with no problem, it brought tears to my eyes to realize that I had shed the weight and overcome yet another "addiction"

[whitebark]

Thanks for all the nice comments. Northern Yosemite has a character all its own...It is lower in elevation than the southern Sierra but wetter with wonderful lakes and creeks...I love the area!

[HH8]

I just completed a nine day backpack in the Hoover Wilderness and northern part of Yosemite National Park.

I love it too. I have taken people on several Treks through that area. One of my favorite views of Robinson Lake(s)




We called it Mermaid Lake because of the Girl Scouts

[zippetydude]

Great TR and excellent pics! I love that wide open country up there too, we just got back from 8 days in Tuolumne Meadows. I like the mix of trail and xc that you mentioned also - though getting cliffed-out can be a little disconcerting. In your pics I especially enjoyed the second pic from Matterhorn, the one of that huge rock between the two trees, and the crack at Travertine. I had seen a similar picture some time ago and didn't know where it was, so thanks for the info as well!

z