Lily Rock (aka Tahquitz Rock) via North Gully

[afaraday]

Has anyone hiked up Lily Rock via the North Gully and can comment on the following. (I already checked Summitpost and elsewhere and just need some clarification):

Is there an approach "trail" from Humber Park to the beginning of the class 3 climb to the saddle?

How would you rate the routefinding? (i.e. is it easy quickly gett off class 3 rock and into class 4 rock?)

Any photos of the route from anyone's trips?

Thanks,

Amin

[halhiker]

I've only gone down the North gully but it's pretty straight forward. There is one tricky move but going up it is much easier than going down it. Remember the move on your trip up and you shouldn't have any problem.

[neverwashasbeen]

There are a few use trails that will take you up to the gully. The best bet is to cross the stream early, get up on the flat above and then stay close to the edge. The trail is easy to follow in this area. You will then be making a circle around the rock, don't be tempted to get close to the rock until you can see the North Gully. There are some 4th and 5th class sections in some large rock formations if you get too close. Once in the gully, it's 3rd class with move here and there. You will go up a friction slab on the left about 2/3rd of the way up. Once up at the notch, pick your way up, tending to stay to the south side and there is an easy 4th class section to the top of the rock. Route finding should be straightforward. I did a quick check and didn't find any useful photos, but if I do find some, I'll let you know.

Happy Trails

[DaddyLongLegs]

I've ascended the north gully twice and descended it several times. There is an approach trail. It starts in the stream and eventually cuts up to the right into talus.

The first time I ascended, I found myself making an exposed and committing move about 2/3 of the way up. Avoid that by moving left into the slabby terrain.

If memory serves me, you can keep it at class 3 if you are careful. The very top can get extremely exposed, though, so be extra cautious there.

You could do a loop by descending the other side of the notch.

[Pitownpi]

Is it possible to continue up the North Gully to the PCT
don't want Lily Rock, or Taqhuitz, just PCT via that gully?

thanx,
Pi

[Hikin_Jim]

Pi!

How you be?? Long time, no see.

HJ

[neverwashasbeen]

PI, anything is possible, that being said, it's not considered very enjoyable.

[KathyW]

Various Routes posted on the HPS Site:

http://angeles.sierraclub.org/hps/guides/28a.htm

I've only done Route 1, which isn't the north gully and was more like Class 2 than Class 3 -

http://kathywing.smugmug.com/California ... &k=WzK2kRH

I tried to go from Lily Rock to Tahquitz Rock along the ridge and had to drop down off the ridge to keep going - as I recall I got into an area that was steep granite with a layer of pine needles on it - really slippery; so it was either go try the ridge again, drop down lower, or go back to Lily. I went back to Lily I know the traverse can be done and kept to Class 3 or less - I'll eventually go try it again.

[Pitownpi]

Thanks for ALL the replies,
Awesome Kathy, just what I needed !
Yesterday was a 'blast' up there, couldn't see much until afternoon clearing, and didn't want to try in such poor visibility....hence my question, we just stuck to the trail mostly...high temps in 30's, rain until 6600ft, snow, sleet, grapple, granule, ball-bearings, powder snow, and then a rapid wonderful melt.....with shimmering sunlit drops and falling icicles.

met 13 through-hikers, half just coming out of Idyllwild after the precip tapered off.

Hey HJ, saw a down-tree yesterday and thought of you!

-Pi
got more work to do up there!