May 17 and or 18th on North Face/Snow Creek or 14er??

[Blacklab2020]

I'm coming in from out of town and looking to climb some alpine and stumbled across this awesome escarpment.

1) Is anyone with snow experience and in darn good physical condition interested in attempting this or a 14er? (May 18th OR the afternoon of May 17th - May 18th)

San Jacinto is easier logistically than a 14er. A 14er may require an overnight or two and thus I need to request a permit. Specifically I was planning Tyndall, Williamson, Russell or Langley.

I could do San Jacinto either as a day or bivy. The 14er, I could spare an extra night for and return on the 19th instead of 18th.

My background: Rock (Trad) since '93. Ice (lead 3+) since 2005, Alpine Snow since 2008. Relevant climbs include Hotlum-Bolam on Shasta, Snowfields on Class 3 13ers and 14ers in CO. 5 years of alpine ascents in the white mountains (New Hampshire) in the winter. Katahdin in March.

As far as physical stamina: I've been putting in 12 mile runs and doing squats in prep for the cascades. 7000 feet of elevation gain in a day locally felt moderate.

~Justin
justin.earp@gmail.com

[Feeel]

Not an expert on Snow Creek, but with our shite snow year I wouldn't get your hopes up for it. The pack in the high Sierras will almost certainly be better for climbing.

But don't take my word for it, others will have better-vetted opinions.

[lilbitmo]

I'm coming in from out of town and looking to climb some alpine and stumbled across this awesome escarpment.

1) Is anyone with snow experience and in darn good physical condition interested in attempting this or a 14er? (May 18th OR the afternoon of May 17th - May 18th)

San Jacinto is easier logistically than a 14er. A 14er may require an overnight or two and thus I need to request a permit. Specifically I was planning Tyndall, Williamson, Russell or Langley.

I could do San Jacinto either as a day or bivy. The 14er, I could spare an extra night for and return on the 19th instead of 18th.

My background: Rock (Trad) since '93. Ice (lead 3+) since 2005, Alpine Snow since 2008. Relevant climbs include Hotlum-Bolam on Shasta, Snowfields on Class 3 13ers and 14ers in CO. 5 years of alpine ascents in the white mountains (New Hampshire) in the winter. Katahdin in March.

As far as physical stamina: I've been putting in 12 mile runs and doing squats in prep for the cascades. 7000 feet of elevation gain in a day locally felt moderate.

~Justin
justin.earp@gmail.com

Justin

Permits for Russel are the same ones for the Whitney Zone, day hike or overnight, pain in the arse to get - but getting there Thursday for a Friday hike might work, they have extra's that they do a drawimg/lottery style on the day before with left overs and no show's, but they are very sought after so that could be a pain. Langley the road might or might not be open by then to Cottonwood Lakes/Horseshoe Meadows - someone posted on Whitney Portal Store Message Board that it's going to be at least two more weeks to clear all the rockfall on that road. I would check summit post (another hiking climbing board we use to share information on)Here for information about the roads and passes leading into Tyndal and Williamson. As far as Snow Creek goes not that many have done it this year as it's been an off snow year, plan on an extremely long day - postholing for about 4,500 Feet or more in the upper chute, it get's real warm in our springs here so plan either an overnighter or start at midnight if you want to catch the last Tram down when you are done the following day, it's at 9:30 PM typically. And most of all do not take the shortcut across the Water Agency Property they are watching and waiting for people to do so, now that you've mentioned it they will be looking specifically on those days more than ever since they tend to moniter this board and others to try to catch people in the act of crossing their 1 square mile tract of land, which by the way is not marked properly under California State Law so sometimes you don't even know you are on it.

If that's still your plan ask if anyone here has the GPS track for the other route that avoids that parcel.

Whatever you do have fun - The White's are fun mountains - The Pressie Traverse is a tough day - did that two years ago and made 9+ before the time ran out meet my wife at the far end and had to high tail it out of there before she called the gusy in Green to come get me

[Blacklab2020]

So heres a bit more detail on what I have found so far.

In talking with rangers at lone pine, I did hear about the rockfall. I think one of the rangers I spoke with thought the road might be open as early as next week. (Dont hold me to that)

I've been into the cottonwood/langley area before, so in terms of 14ers shepherds pass is looking pretty good. But cottonwood is dam scenic!

I am not too concerned about Russell unless someone wants to do the 5.8 arete on the south/soutwest face!

Keep the snow conditions coming in. I really appreciate the first hand reports. And of course I'd be willing to adapt plans to fit someone elses goals as well.

Its not about peak, its about who you are with and how you spend your time out there. I agree 110% on the fun.