by Perry » Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:14 am
Hiking from the tram, it's difficult to tell how consolidated the north face is because it receives significantly less sunlight. As you might already know, the snow tongue starts at 5,500 feet even though that elevation doesn't get very much snowfall in the winter. The reason there's so much snowpack there is because of avalanches.
Late March and early April is considered the (illegal) "climbing season." If you have any delays, the upper layer softens in the late morning and afternoon sun. I don't think I'll do it again without 2" crampon points (like Grivels). Standard 1" points slip too much when the snow softens on a steep slope.