Ed, here is the quote about Ray Beal from the book:
"Louis Raymond Beal, 55
September 1 1979 South Crack, Polly Dome
Despite being warned by Dick DeRusha to wait, Beal of Granada Hills, California continued a 2-pitch "rappel" (in bold print) without waiting for his 3 climbing partners to catch up. Beal clipped his "non-locking carabiner" (in bold print) onto a single piton. He then secured his rappel rope's figure-8 knot onto the carabiner. He began his rappel. "His rope unclipped" (in bold print). He fell 270 feet."
He is lucky he lived to be 55! Most of the many many fatal climbing accidents were in their twenties, some in their teens, and some in their thirties. An observation I made is that only 6 climbers were listed as fatalities before 1960. Then, with one exception, the next 22 fatalities between 1960 and May 18, 1979 were in their teens or 20's (That's 19 years of fatalities!) Then, Ray, 55, had his fall on September 1, 1979.