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Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:37 pm
by Ellen
Howdy All :)

I carpooled with Marilyn and David Deeter last Friday. We left Riverside fairly early and arrived at 3 PM. This gave us time to walk around a bit, enjoy the canyon views in daylight and get an early dinner at the Arizona café.

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We picked up other members of our group on the shuttle stops on the way to the south Kaibob trailhead. It was fun to start in the dark and see numerous headlamps switch backing below. The sky started to lighten and we were treated to exquisite views.

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Near Skeleton Point, I took the "obligatory" shadow photo :wink: before continuing to descend. If only my legs were as long :lol:

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We were passed by several mule trains before beginning the final descent to the Colorado river.

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Four of us (Marilyn, David, Valentina and I) reached Phantom Ranch in three hours and took a short break before hiking into the Box -- one of my favorite sections of the R2R2R hike. The trail crosses back and forth over the Bright Angel creek under the high walls of the Box canyon. We were treated to welcome shade and the lovely sound of Bright Angel creek. I've never been able to capture the beauty of the Box in pictures.

Upon leaving the box, the canyon widened and we were baked by the morning sun. The temperature was in the high 80's. We took a welcome lunch/water stop at Cottonwood. We resumed hiking at 12:30, knowing that we were now in "sun's anvil." When the trail became steeper below Roaring Springs, my head felt like it was going to pop off my torso and my hip flexors cramped up. The heat and lack of shade were causing Marilyn to suffer as well. Fortunately, we started to hike in shade again. The North Kaibab also cooperated by providing stunning views.

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I knew we were getting close when we started switch backing up through pines and deciduous trees. Several folks walked by me going down hill and said "Only five more minutes!" After what seemed like an eternity, I popped out at the North Rim trailhead, greeted by a group of clapping and cheering strangers. :o I hadn't experienced anything like that since my last Pike's Peak Ascent :)

I wanted to hitch a ride to the North Rim lodge but David wanted to walk the additional two miles. When I reached the North Rim lodge, I went straight to the Saloon (bar) and ordered a Lumberyard IPA :lol: Marilyn joined me at the bar (she was smart and got a ride), followed shortly by David and Valentina (they'd checked in first). David and I got chewed out by a female bar fly for encouraging Marilyn to hike back the next day rather than take the shuttle :roll:

We ate dinner at the North Rim lodge with our friend Krai and "Krai's Angels" -- he had trained with three R2R first timers. Readied our packs for the return trip before going to bed. The following morning, we were pleasantly surprised to discover that we could buy breakfast burritos and other breakfast items at the Saloon. The four of us and other folks took the first shuttle back to the North Rim trailhead and we started hiking down at 5:45 AM.

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A bit after passing Roaring Springs, we got our first view of the South Rim.

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To our very pleasant surprise, it felt cooler than the day before and we made good time to Cottonwood and the Box. We reached Phantom Ranch at 11 AM and took an hour fuel/water break. Finally saddled up, crossed the Colorado a second time and did the obnoxious traverse through sand along the river.

We were happy to finally turn away from the Colorado and start up to Indian Garden. We climbed. And climbed. My hair grew longer. The wind blew, kicking dust into our eyes. When we reached a riparian area with trees I said, "We're getting close." Not. At least ten minutes went by :? Marilyn said she saw a sign. Encouraged, I asked her what it said. She responded dryly, "We're gonna die." Actually, it was a warning sign to remind hikers going down to carry adequate water.

Two hours after leaving Phantom Ranch, we reached Indian Garden and took a badly needed break. Seriously, it felt like someone used the trail stretcher to move Indian Gardens 15 to 20 minutes further up the trail. Must be that joker who moves the picnic tables up Skyline.

Refueled and revived, we resumed our climb. After a short dry and dusty stretch, we were once again climbing in the shade. The cool weather was invigorating -- the views were breath-taking.

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Valentina passing through a tunnel near the South Rim.

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At last!

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This was Marilyn's and Valentina's first R2R2R, David's second and my fourth. We celebrated in the Bright Angel bar and enjoyed another awesome dinner at the Arizona café. After a substantial breakfast in the Bright Angel café, we sadly bid farewell to the Grand Canyon -- until the next time 8)

Miles of smiles,
Ellen

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:38 pm
by zippetydude
Nice Ellen! So you've become a regular there...that's one trail I have yet to do. Maybe next fall, as October is the best time for so many trails...Glad you brought the rookies through with no problems! Congrats Marilyn (since I've done Skyline with you, I feel like you're my sister already) and Valentina, you did the same crazy hard hike, so well done to you! See you all soon on Skyline!

z

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 11:41 am
by drndr
Which direction did you like the best? Of course try to take out the fact that you were already tired on day two from day one..

Dan

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 9:50 am
by Sally
Folks, I did Skyline with Ellen and Marilyn just four days after their R2R2R and they BOTH kicked the snot out of me and beat me to the Notch. They never slow down, those crazy ladies!

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:04 pm
by Ellen
Howdy Dan :)

It felt easier going back to the south rim. We were in shade longer and the climb from Phantom ranch up to the Bright Angel TH gains less elevation. It was also a bit cooler on Sunday. Both directions are beautiful.

Some folks go back up south Kaibab because it is shorter. However, there's no water. Climbing up Bright Angel also provides different views.

Howdy Z :)

I highly recommend the R2R2R. Lots of ultra runners and uber hikers tag the north rim, then head back -- finishing in under 24 hours. For me, the area is so gorgeous that I want to see it in the daylight. I also appreciate the dinner, beer and bed at the North Rim lodge.

I think I may go mid-week next year -- easier to get rooms and less folks on the trail.

Howdy Sister Sally :)

You didn't notice the rocks that Miracle Marilyn and I put in your pack :wink:

Miles of smiles,
Ellen

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:49 pm
by Brian
Ellen, great TR. I am going to try a R2River (same day) or R2R2R (two days), next October. Can you tell me the total time it took to travel from South Rim to North Rim? I was considering stopping at Phantom Ranch but it may not be necessary.Thank you, Brian K.

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:59 pm
by GoPlayer
Nice report, brings back memories.

Ellen wrote:...
I highly recommend the R2R2R. Lots of ultra runners and uber hikers tag the north rim, then head back -- finishing in under 24 hours. For me, the area is so gorgeous that I want to see it in the daylight. I also appreciate the dinner, beer and bed at the North Rim lodge.


I agree. I've done it as a 3 day (South to North, Rest day, North to South) and in under 24h (hiking, no running). During the fast version we only saw trail, during the slow version we took time to cool off in the river, had a side trip to Ribbon falls and of course we had margaritas and beers at the Lodge during our stay.

Brian wrote:Ellen, great TR. I am going to try a R2River (same day) or R2R2R (two days), next October. Can you tell me the total time it took to travel from South Rim to North Rim? I was considering stopping at Phantom Ranch but it may not be necessary.Thank you, Brian K.


My notes say South Kaibab down and then up on the other side is about 21 miles with 5800ft elevation gain. Time of course depends on hiking speed and breaks. So for what it's worth we took about 11h incl. some nice breaks.

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 2:30 pm
by Ellen
Howdy All :)

My friend Miracle Marilyn is 72 years old and a constant inspiration to her friends 8) I want to be like her when I grow up.

Howdy Brian :)

I hiked from the south to north rim in 10 hours and 20 minutes. From north to south, it took 11 hours. The mileage on the return trip was longer and our rest stops were longer.

For reference, my average Skyline time is 6 hr. I'm not fast, just crazy :lol:

Howdy GoPlayer :)

You STUD -- hiking both directions in under 24 hours :twisted: I know other folks who've done it but doubt that I could.

I love doing long hikes such as the Snow Creek PCT to tram and San Gorgonio 9 peaks. Both have taken me about 14 hours. I prefer point to point long hikes -- the change in scenery helps as I become tired.

Miles of smiles,
Ellen

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:03 pm
by KathyW
Wonderful report and beautiful photos.

Re: Grand Canyon R2R2R

PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:32 am
by Ellen
Howdy All :)

Thanks to Kathy W for letting me tag along on her first R2R2R in the fall of 2007 8) Now I'm addicted :lol:

Miles of smiles,
Ellen