The rock climbing decimal system is from Tahquitz?

[zippetydude]

Hey, check this out from Wiki. I had looked up the rock climbing system to understand Halhiker's comment to Newmountaineer, and came across this:

The increasing technical difficulty of Class 5 climbs led to the same relative-grading problem that had caused the initial development of the system; as a result, Class 5 was subdivided in the 1950s. Initially it was based on ten climbs of Tahquitz Rock in Idyllwild, California, and ranged from "the Trough" at 5.0, a relatively modest technical climb, to "the Open Book" at 5.9, considered at the time the most difficult unaided climb humanly possible. This system was developed by members of the Rock Climbing Section of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club.[1]

Very interesting - Tahquitz is very well known, I guess.

z

[Hikin_Jim]

I've heard that about Tahquitz too, but it's interesting that it's called the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System). I believe the climbers from Tahquitz went to "Mecca" (Yosemite Valley) where the decimal rating system gained more general acceptance.

I'm not sure I agree with Wiki's description of the classes (not that I'm an expert rock climber), but I think I'd describe them more as:
1. No use of hands necessary for travel. Example: a trail, easy cross country.
2. Hands are used for balance only. Example: tough cross country
3. Hands are used to propel the body upward. Holds are obvious, plentiful, and of good quality. No special technical skills are required. Note that this is the first class that is considered "climbing."
4. Hands are used to climb. Hand holds are not obvious or of poor quality. Technical skills must be used. Technical gear is typically used.
5. Hands used to climb. Hand holds are infrequent and very difficult, mastery of technical skills is essential. Technical gear is highly recommended.

[magikwalt]

When I was a young lad I used to climb but that was some 40lbs ago. Hikin_Jim is correct about the numbers being from 1-5 but what ZippetyDude is referencing are the numbers above 5. That starts at 5.0, 5.1, 5.2 etc until upwards of 5.13, 5.14 and however far the wild boys are going now.

Additionally there are letters thrown in on the end in an attempt to show more clearly how much harder one 5.11 route is over another 5.11 route. So now you will see a route being called 5.11a or 5.11d but neither is harder than a 5.12 with or without a letter.

Obviously most people don't agree with the rating of most routes primarily due to everyone having sucess on different types of climbs. Given my size I hate climbs where my legs get disabled and the arms become too important. Thin climbers have a better weight to upper body strength ratio and tend to like the "great arms/shoulders required" routes.

Good Climbin To Ya!

[Hikin_Jim]

Supposedly it's up to 5.15a now. I'm thinking I'll stick to a nice Class 0 expedition this weekend (eating BBQ sitting down).

[Perry]

Everybody needs a class 0 once in awhile. I'll unfortunately be out of town.

[halhiker]

I actually think the hike to the picnic tables is class one and the hike up the concrete path is, for some people, class two.

The YDS was first used at Tahquitz. Some of the original developers at Tahquitz went on the pioneer many outstanding climbs in Yosemite and so the name became the YDS. A couple of the prominent climbers in Idyllwild were Royal Robbins, who went on to found Royal Robbins clothing line and Yvon Choiunard, who went on the found Choiunard Eqt (now Black Diamond Eqt. Ltd.) and Patagonia. Class 5 runs from 5.1-5.9 and at 10 is subdivided a, b, c, d up to 5.15a. There is also a Class 6, commonly called Aid Climbing. This is where ropes and equipment are used to do the actual climbing rather than just being used for protection.

Anyone who enjoys hiking should take, IMO, a rock climbing class because the skills learned can translate very well to the hiking experience and if you decide to climb some of the bigger mountains can be essential. Besides, it's fun to have people you work with think you're crazy.

Hal

[Hikin_Jim]

Hunh. You never know what you'll learn on this board. I knew about Patagonia but didn't know that Choiunard (sp?) was involved in Black Diamond.

Besides, it's fun to have people you work with think you're crazy.

Well, and there you have it.