San Gorgonio North face 4-5-09

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San Gorgonio North face 4-5-09

Postby Norris » Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:55 am

I had planned another C2C attempt but decided to bag it Friday night due to a forecast of high winds. Saturday morning I decided to attempt one of the north face chutes on San Gorgonio, with an overnight at Dry Lake. I called the ranger station and verified there would be no problem getting a permit, and began organizing gear, food, etc. I got a late start, leaving San Diego well after 11:00 am, arriving at the ranger station around 1:45, and the trailhead parking lot at 2:15 or so. I started up the trail at 2:35, a bit concerned about reaching Dry Lake before dark. I needn't have worried, the route to Dry Lake when there is snow cover is vastly more efficient and much shorter than the trail. From the creek crossing it just goes straight up the drainage. The snow was hard even though it was late afternoon and sunny. No postholing. Beautiful day. Characteristically, I forgot about my camera :roll: and took no photos until arriving at Dry Lake after 3 hours, reasonable time considering I was carrying a bear canister, tent, sleeping bag, stove and fuel, etc. I lucked out and found a nice dry patch to camp on, unusual since everything else was covered in several feet of snow. I got water at Lodgepole spring, saving a lot of snow melting effort and fuel. Overnight low was 16 degrees (Brrr!) according to 2 rangers camped nearby. I knew it was cold because I needed clothes in my 15 degree rated bag. The next morning I realized I had forgotten the oatmeal and coffee, so I had to breakfast on hot water poured over a Powerbar :) Not recommended. I was away by the crack of 8:00, not exactly an alpine start. As I crossed the frozen snow pan of Dry Lake, I noticed another climber on the other side of the lake. It turned out to be Brian M, who was also solo. We decided to climb the second chute from the left, since the others had either a lot of slabby looking snow or dry patches or both. We started up the chute around 9:00 am and were at the top shortly after 11:00. The angle of the chute was lower than I expected, 35 degrees at most. On the ascent, the lower portion was perfect for cramponing, but there was some powdery, slabby snow in the middle section which caused us to move left onto the ridge for awhile. Later we moved back into the chute and continued to the top. On the descent we just plunge stepped through this section which speeded the descent considerably. I was back at my camp by 1:00 and back at the car by 4:30. Photos (such as they are :? ) are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/24753178@N08/
Dave G, I obviously need some Flickr lessons too, don't quite have that ordering / set thing down yet :lol:
Should post some more / better ones tonight or tomorrow, expecting some photos from Brian.
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Postby zippetydude » Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:28 am

Nice TR and great pics. I didn't realize the dry patches extended so far down the north face - looks like I can get back up there now without having to worry about ice on the real steep parts above 11,000. Thanks for the post!

z
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Backside San G

Postby lilbitmo » Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:39 am

Norris,

Anytime you can get up the northside chutes on a sunny day it's something special. Thanks for the great pictures and TR.

Makes me want to drop what I'm doing and head up.

:D
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Postby Dave G » Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:30 am

Nice work, Norris!
I see I missed you on the summit by two hours. Too bad, I might have shared my beer with you--not! :twisted:
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Postby Norris » Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:54 am

Dave G wrote:Nice work, Norris!
I see I missed you on the summit by two hours. Too bad, I might have shared my beer with you--not! :twisted:


Umm... neglected to mention that we blew off going to the true summit :oops: Brian wanted to descend in time to practice snow anchors before walking out, and I was OK with that, having summited San G. half a dozen times or so. I just wanted to climb the face. But I thought you went Saturday? If I had known Sunday was your summit day I would have tried to intercept you guys. I might have had to confiscate some of those unauthorized beverages though... sort of a citizen's arrest if you know what I mean :lol:
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Postby NormaR » Mon Apr 06, 2009 1:52 pm

Hi Norris! Good job! that sure would have been fun to run into you. we all looked down into the north face and i tried to imagine skiing it?...

you have complained about those few extra pounds, but forgetting food is one tough way to loose them. powerbar porridge, eh? :? glad it sustained you.
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Postby Dave G » Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:59 pm

Norris wrote:
Dave G wrote:Nice work, Norris!
I see I missed you on the summit by two hours. Too bad, I might have shared my beer with you--not! :twisted:


Umm... neglected to mention that we blew off going to the true summit :oops: Brian wanted to descend in time to practice snow anchors before walking out, and I was OK with that, having summited San G. half a dozen times or so. I just wanted to climb the face. But I thought you went Saturday? If I had known Sunday was your summit day I would have tried to intercept you guys. I might have had to confiscate some of those unauthorized beverages though... sort of a citizen's arrest if you know what I mean :lol:


Actually, we did go on Saturday. The beer just made it feel like a Sunday :wink:

But I'll accept your confession of not tagging the summit anyway :P
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Postby Norris » Mon Apr 06, 2009 3:07 pm

NormaR wrote:Hi Norris! Good job! that sure would have been fun to run into you. we all looked down into the north face and i tried to imagine skiing it?...


Hi Norma! If you were looking down the face from immediately below the summit area, you were looking down the (I think) much steeper North-East face. I'd like to do that too, but I can't find any beta / trip-reports. That face is accessed from the trail just past Mine shaft saddle.
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Postby alleyehave » Mon Apr 06, 2009 3:51 pm

We stayed at Trail Flat on Saturday night and went up one of the east ridges. Snow was pretty good considering the bright skies with no clouds! Zero winds on the summit. Beautiful weekend, glad I went...
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Postby Norris » Mon Apr 06, 2009 6:13 pm

Hi alleyehave, any pictures, route details? I'm interested in more ascents from this side. Vivian Creek is getting old.
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