Gear question: "Beginner" crampons?

[Jacek]

I wish I had crampons on my last trip (last weekend) as there was still hard packed snow/ice on trails. What is a good set to get for beginner/intermediate backpacker?

[powderfinder]

I heard that REI shops sometime rent crampons. Does anyone know how much it cost to rent them?

[hvydrt]

$12 bucks with a membership

[Norris]

I wouldn't say that crampons come in different varities for "beginner" or "intermediate" or "expert". You choose them depending on factors like intended use (general mountaineering or specialized, like waterfall ice climbing), weight (super-lightweight aluminum for minimum weight or steel for durability), boot type (rigid sole or flexible sole? grooves for toe/heel bail or not?), and the like. Check out this useful link:
http://www.rei.com/rei/learn/noDetail.jsp?URL=/rei/learn/climb/chcramponf.jsp

[powderfinder]

$12 bucks with a membership

Really? How much does a membership cost?

[Hikin_Jim]

An REI lifetime membership costs $20.00. See http://www.rei.com/shared/help/membersh ... oreId=8000

Remember that crampons are intended to be used with an ice axe. Crampons are not intended to be used alone (although if you were in completely flat terrain with no danger of falling down a slope, you wouldn't really need an ice axe).

Ice axe and crampon use is fairly tricky -- and critical. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 7th Edition, (and I'm sure others) gives a pretty good overview of ice axe and crampon use, but generally book learning isn't considered sufficient; "hands on" training is typically recommended.

Locally, we've had multiple fall-related deaths and several VERY near misses this year with people who should have had crampons/ice axe but didn't or used them improperly.

[Norris]

I agree with Hikin_Jim, but would add the qualification that trekking poles (particularly if equipped with Trek Talonz) are a good substitute for an ice-axe on low-angle terrain. When one is hiking an icy trail (as opposed to climbing a snow slope of 35 or more degrees) the terrain is rarely steep enough to use an ice-axe for balance unless the axe is exceptionally long. And bending over to compensate for a short axe is not a good idea.

[Hikin_Jim]

For those interested in crampons/ice axes, Rick M's comments in this http://sangabrielmnts.myfreeforum.org/about276.html thread are pretty relavant.

Of course Rick is talking about serious terrain. If all you're doing is easy terrain without a lot of exposure, then you may not need to take things quite as seriously.

There are other options besides crampons such as the various types of micro spikes which are fine for trails that aren't steep and don't have a lot of drop offs. If you are going up steep trails or are cutting across drop offs, then you do need full ice axe and crampons and do need to go through the process of learning about them and getting the training. If you're climbing icy slopes for skiing/snow boarding, then pretty much for sure you need to go the full ice axe & crampons route.

[powderfinder]

For those interested in crampons/ice axes, Rick M's comments in this http://sangabrielmnts.myfreeforum.org/about276.html thread are pretty relavant.

Of course Rick is talking about serious terrain. If all you're doing is easy terrain without a lot of exposure, then you may not need to take things quite as seriously.

There are other options besides crampons such as the various types of micro spikes which are fine for trails that aren't steep and don't have a lot of drop offs. If you are going up steep trails or are cutting across drop offs, then you do need full ice axe and crampons and do need to go through the process of learning about them and getting the training. If you're climbing icy slopes for skiing/snow boarding, then pretty much for sure you need to go the full ice axe & crampons route.

What would you recomend for a trip to San Gorgonio and Jepsen Peak? Lets assume that this trip would be sometime in January and there will likely be a lot of snow. Would you use crampons and an ice ax or snow shoes?

[Hikin_Jim]

Well, first, I'm not an expert at serious winter travel. I've had some education and training and have done some, but am not an expert. I will pass on to you what I've learned, but a guy like Rick M who has done it for years and has been on several different SAR teams would be a really good guy to talk to.

So: SG & Jepson in January, snow shoes vs. ice axe and crampons -- which to bring? Well, it depends. What are the conditions at time? If there's old snow, then for sure ice axe and crampons. If there's a lot of fresh, deep powder, then snow shoes. In general. The problem is in CA that you never know quite what to expect.

Because of the difficulty in predicting conditons, some people carry both an ice axe/crampon set and a set of snowshoes. When you get to harder stuff, then ice axe & crampons. When in the soft stuff, then snow shoes. The deal in S Cal is that you can get bare rock, hard ice, soft powder, and all combinations in between -- all in one day.

In particular with SG & Jepson, since there is so much steep terrain, one should probably have ice axe and crampons for winter ascents.