Last spring I did a day hike down the South Kaibab Trail from the Grand Canyon's South Rim to the Colorado River and then back up the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim. I really enjoyed the hike and when someone mentioned they had done a two-day trip from the South Rim to the North Rim and then back to the South Rim I became intrigued. I decided I wanted to do the two-day R2R2R trip when the weather was cool, but also when the lodge was open at the North Rim so that I could stay there and not have to carry camping gear. I ended up getting a room at the North Rim the last night they were open for the season. As I was planning the trip, I found out that Ellen was interested in going and I was really happy to have found someone to do the trek with.
On Monday morning we took the first shuttle from the Bright Angel Lodge to the South Kaibab Trail and started down toward the Colorado River at around 6:30 am. The weather was perfect on the way down and we were soon down to shorts and t-shirts. We refilled our water at the Phantom Ranch and picked up sack lunches. The first part of the hike up the North Kaibab Trail was in the shade but then it got warm. We sat for while in the shade before Cottonwood Camp to cool down and that helped. After Cottonwood Camp, the temperature began to cool down and the hiking became pleasant. Up and up we went. Water was available from faucets at four places along the North Kaibab Trail and there was even lemonade waiting for us at Roaring River. The scenery was just beautiful along the way. As we got closer to the North Rim the climb became steeper and it was a relief to finally reach the North Rim about 11 hours and 21 miles after we started and just before it got dark out. A nice woman who had done a day hike from the North Rim to the River and back was kind enough to shuttle us and a couple of other hikers the two miles to the North Rim Lodge.
In the morning, we caught the first shuttle from the North Rim Lodge to the North Kaibab Trailhead at 5 am and started down the trail just after 5 am. Down, down, down we went to the Colorado River. I felt really good before we reached Cottonwood Camp and made the side trip to Ribbon Falls, which was beautiful, but after Cottonwood Camp I started to drag and told Ellen to go on ahead to Phantom Ranch because I need to move slow. I ate some gel and drank more, which helped, but I was afraid to stop for more than a few minutes at a time after at that point because I thought my legs would stiffen up too much to get going again. Ellen was at Phantom Ranch when I got there. I grabbed part of my sack lunch and headed across the bridge toward the Bright Angel Trail. Water was available about halfway up the Bright Angel Trail at Indian Gardens. Ellen had taken a longer break at Phantom Ranch and caught up to me at Indian Gardens. I had planned to take a couple of minutes to stop and eat at Indian Gardens, but the weather had turned cloudy and the wind kicked up when I sat down; so I filled the water and headed up the trail soon after I arrived. Ellen headed up the trail moving ahead of me and I continued on in survival mode - one step at a time making sure that I kept drinking and consumming gel. The cloud cover kept it cool and the few rain drops felt good on the way up. As with the North Rim, the trail was steeper near the top. Finally, I reached the South Rim about 24 miles and 11 hours and 45 minutes after starting down from the North Rim. Ellen was waiting at the Bright Angel Lodge with a smile on her face when I got there. That beer really tasted good at the lodge.
We covered 45 miles with close to 17,000 feet gain/loss with all the ups and downs (per National Geographic TOPO software) over the two days.
Pictures from our trek:
http://kathywing.smugmug.com/gallery/3666154#209491611