Grand Canyon R2R2R - Oct 15 & 16, 2007

[KathyW]

Last spring I did a day hike down the South Kaibab Trail from the Grand Canyon's South Rim to the Colorado River and then back up the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim. I really enjoyed the hike and when someone mentioned they had done a two-day trip from the South Rim to the North Rim and then back to the South Rim I became intrigued. I decided I wanted to do the two-day R2R2R trip when the weather was cool, but also when the lodge was open at the North Rim so that I could stay there and not have to carry camping gear. I ended up getting a room at the North Rim the last night they were open for the season. As I was planning the trip, I found out that Ellen was interested in going and I was really happy to have found someone to do the trek with.

On Monday morning we took the first shuttle from the Bright Angel Lodge to the South Kaibab Trail and started down toward the Colorado River at around 6:30 am. The weather was perfect on the way down and we were soon down to shorts and t-shirts. We refilled our water at the Phantom Ranch and picked up sack lunches. The first part of the hike up the North Kaibab Trail was in the shade but then it got warm. We sat for while in the shade before Cottonwood Camp to cool down and that helped. After Cottonwood Camp, the temperature began to cool down and the hiking became pleasant. Up and up we went. Water was available from faucets at four places along the North Kaibab Trail and there was even lemonade waiting for us at Roaring River. The scenery was just beautiful along the way. As we got closer to the North Rim the climb became steeper and it was a relief to finally reach the North Rim about 11 hours and 21 miles after we started and just before it got dark out. A nice woman who had done a day hike from the North Rim to the River and back was kind enough to shuttle us and a couple of other hikers the two miles to the North Rim Lodge.

In the morning, we caught the first shuttle from the North Rim Lodge to the North Kaibab Trailhead at 5 am and started down the trail just after 5 am. Down, down, down we went to the Colorado River. I felt really good before we reached Cottonwood Camp and made the side trip to Ribbon Falls, which was beautiful, but after Cottonwood Camp I started to drag and told Ellen to go on ahead to Phantom Ranch because I need to move slow. I ate some gel and drank more, which helped, but I was afraid to stop for more than a few minutes at a time after at that point because I thought my legs would stiffen up too much to get going again. Ellen was at Phantom Ranch when I got there. I grabbed part of my sack lunch and headed across the bridge toward the Bright Angel Trail. Water was available about halfway up the Bright Angel Trail at Indian Gardens. Ellen had taken a longer break at Phantom Ranch and caught up to me at Indian Gardens. I had planned to take a couple of minutes to stop and eat at Indian Gardens, but the weather had turned cloudy and the wind kicked up when I sat down; so I filled the water and headed up the trail soon after I arrived. Ellen headed up the trail moving ahead of me and I continued on in survival mode - one step at a time making sure that I kept drinking and consumming gel. The cloud cover kept it cool and the few rain drops felt good on the way up. As with the North Rim, the trail was steeper near the top. Finally, I reached the South Rim about 24 miles and 11 hours and 45 minutes after starting down from the North Rim. Ellen was waiting at the Bright Angel Lodge with a smile on her face when I got there. That beer really tasted good at the lodge.

We covered 45 miles with close to 17,000 feet gain/loss with all the ups and downs (per National Geographic TOPO software) over the two days.

Pictures from our trek:

http://kathywing.smugmug.com/gallery/3666154#209491611

[Hikin_Jim]

Nice TR!! Very cool pictures too. Like the ones of the falls.

HJ

[Cy Kaicener]

Great trip report. http://www.outdoorsclub.org has a scheduled trip going there on Oct 27. See Calendar

[Ellen]

Howdy All

First of all, thanks to Kathy for making a life-long dream come true. I've always wanted to hike the Grand Canyon. She is a wonderful trekking companion and trip organizer -- I look forward to more adventures with her in the future.

I drove in on Saturday so I would have Sunday to recover from the drive, explore the South rim, and figure out the free shuttle system. I stayed at the Bright Angel lodge. There are no words to explain what it is like to drink morning coffee while sitting on the rim wall looking out over the Grand Canyon. When a ranger walked by and asked how I was doing, I just wordlessly motioned towards the view.

Kathy decided to "increase the fun" (as AlanK would say) by hiking Humphreys peak (a 3 K gain to 12,500) on Saturday. We connected for dinner at the Arizona room at Bright Angel lodge on Sunday.

It felt bizarre to start a hike by going downhill. Watching the sun come up and light the canyon walls was spectacular and distracted me from the downhill quad carnage. We had just crossed the bridge over the Colorado when other hikers pointed out several deer lying in the brush off the trail. They blended in with their surroundings so well that you can barely see them in my picture.

After a quick stop at Phantom ranch, we headed up the North Kaibob trail which followed the Bright Angel creek up Bright Angel canyon. In the beginning of the trail, we were surrounded by huge walls on both sides of the canyon. It was scenic, cool, and shaded. The glorious rush of the creek filled our ears.

About half way between Phantom ranch and Cottonwood camp, the canyon opened up and we were in the sun with little airflow. At one point, the "trail" disintegrated into a marsh surrounded by tall reeds. No matter where we planted our feet, we sank into the slime. (We found out later that the trail has been like this since the spring). After the lunch stop, I began to feel like the proverbial dead blond hiking as the heat increased and the trail became steeper. (Visualize the never-ending ridge before Flatrock).

By Roaring Springs, the temperature thankfully cooled off and we started to switchback up Roaring Springs canyon. This section of the trail was exquisitely beautiful -- we climbed in shade through scented pine trees and brightly colored rim rock. I felt that I could hike forever, but was very grateful when a man called out that cold beer was only 20 minutes away. Sure enough, I was soon at the North Kaibob trailhead. I had just enough time to pull out my camera and snap a picture of Kathy coming up through the aspens.

We had a sumptuous pasta dinner and retired to our North rim cabin. I found that my Camelbak had leaked on my second set of shorts and t-shirt. They dried out nicely by the fire but felt starched from the Gatorade electrolytes when I put them on the next morning.

It was warmer than expected when we started our descent. I got my obligatory one-pratfall-per-hike out of the way about 30 minutes into the descent (I have difficulties with depth-perception in the dark, even with a head lamp). Since I was fully clothed, I have no flesh wounds as souvenirs We were soon down to shorts and t-shirts and stopped for water at Roaring springs and Cottonwood. The section from Cottonwood to Phantom was blessedly cooler due to the earlier time of day.

I took a leisurely lunch at Phantom and chatted with people from two other groups who were returning from the North rim to South rim after a rest day. I finally got organized and started the final leg of the hike. Walking over the suspension bridge was a blast. After crossing, I took a picture of people rafting down the Colorado River.

The Bright Angel trail follows the river for a bit and goes up and down, which began to get on my nerves. My feet were also beginning to feel the miles and I developed a blister on the right forefoot. The trail finally turned away from the Colorado and started to climb.

The clouds that had begun to accumulate in the morning turned darker and the wind picked up. It even sprinkled a bit. As I was a polar bear in my former life, I welcomed the cool temperature. Just about the time I despaired of ever reaching Indian Garden, I arrived. As if on cue, the clouds became even blacker and the wind howled through the trees.

Fortunately, Kathy had warned me that the last section from Indian Garden to the rim was tough. The steps (I assume they were created to prevent trail erosion) are not spaced for humans my size. In addition, the trail is badly rutted from the mule trains. At least I was suffering in a beautiful setting. The play of light and shadow on the canyon walls was breath-taking.

We were constantly leap-frogging people from the two groups at lunch. They hiked faster but took breaks. Kathy and I maintained a steady survivalist pace. The view impossibly kept improving as we ascended. A ranger asked me if I was OK when I passed him (did I really look that bad?) I yelled yahoo when I saw the Kolb studio, knowing I was almost at the rim. The Bright Angel trailhead appeared several long switchbacks later.

A kind stranger took my picture in front of the trailhead sign and I limped off along the rim trail towards the lodge to escape the icy wind. I huddled by the fire in the Bright Angel lodge with other R2R2R hikers. Kathy popped in a few moments later. I no longer believe her claim that she is a slow hiker -- I think she's sandbagging me

All in all, a fabulous journey. I'll definitely return.

Miles of smiles,
Ellen

[zippetydude]

Great trip reports, and tantalizing pictures. I had not considered the Rim to Rim to Rim in the way you two did it - overnighting at the north rim. I think that's a great idea - there and back non-stop would be very difficult and certainly detract from the sight seeing. Your way was much wiser, but still a huge challenge. Thanks for the trip reports and the excellent pictures. I'm already starting to look at the logistics to take a trip next year...

Kathy, I guess you're not afraid of heights????? That picture on the first page of photos (the one of you perched on a rock, inches from death ) made my heart stop! Yipes! There's no way I'd get out there, much less stand up like it was no big deal. You're quite the intrepid explorer!

Ellen, I see you were wise enough to stay off that rock. (At least, there was no similar picture.) I'm glad to hear that all your skin has returned home with you, despite your "pratfall". (I usually try to disguise my crashes in trail reports with euphamisms - "At that point, I kissed the sweet Earth" or perhaps "During my trip, I took the opportunity to bite the planet".)

In any case, you should both be proud - that sounds like a tough but wonderful adventure.

z

[guest]

Hi Kathy & Ellen,

Thanks for all the info & great photos, you too are troopers to hike this.
I missed out last summer doing N to S, did Kaibab to Bright Angel the year before, would love to go both ways someday.

ss

[Cy Kaicener]

Octogenarian crosses Grand Canyon 106 times a year
http://azstarnet.com/allheadlines/152357.php

[KathyW]

Ellen: It was a great trip and you were so nice to put up with me.

Zip: I'm not terribly afraid of exposure - I just don't look down and I'm fine.

Cy: It's always nice to read about people who don't retire from physical activity - I don't want to have to stop hiking until it's time for eternal rest. I have to agree that Cottonwood would be a good spot to camp if doing the South to North trip as an overnighter - it splits the hike up more evenly than camping at the River would. I saw the outdoors club trip - doing the whole hike in one day will be difficult but they are strong. I know Larry has done it before in a little over 19 hours - they will have to go down the Bright Angel Trail because of how early they need to start, which will make it a couple miles longer too.

SS: You'll really enjoy it when you go do the S to N trek - I really liked the North Kaibab Trail - it was just beautiful.

[MooseTracks]

Ellen: Congrats on a wonderful adventure! I haven't been back to the GC for years, but I think coming in from the North Rim is definitely in the cards at some point in the next year or two. Once I get settled from the move I'll be able to figure out a better timetable.

What? No war wounds?? I'm so disappointed! The rock out there is tremendously stunning, and equally unforgiving! Looks like you had a blast!

Congratulations again!

-Laura

[Ellen]

Howdy Laura

This was my first time doing any hiking in the Grand Canyon (I've only been there once, 35 years ago), so I loved the whole experience. The last part of the North Kaibob trail from Roaring Springs to the rim was absolutely breath-taking. I'm definately going back -- hopefully next spring. I think it would be worth it stay a day at the North Rim and explore before heading back.

Have no fear -- you can still recognize me by the fresh scars on my legs from Tamrack

Best wishes on getting settled in your new locale -- I hope you're close to the Sierras.

A friend just sent me pictures of Angels Landing in Zion -- looks like a fabulous hike in a beautiful setting

Miles of smiles,
Ellen