I completed my second Grand Canyon rim2rim2rim last week. My Pike’s Peak friends drove over from Albuquerque and met me at the Bright Angel lodge on Tuesday Sept 30. We did the tourist thing on Wednesday – watched the sun rise from the rim outside our room while drinking coffee, walked along the rim, checked out the gift shops, and rode the shuttle buses to different view points. The midday weather at 6,000 ft on the south rim foretold a hot hike ahead.
We started down South Kaibob about 5:15 AM on Thursday. I wore high top boots to provide the best protection for my ankle and feet, while Lynn wore running shoes. Within 20 minutes, I stripped off my ultra-light Gortex pants and fleece jacket. Not a good sign of things to come. I watched the sun rise at Skeleton Point. Hmm…another bad omen.
I encountered the first mule train on the trail before crossing the Colorado River. I was almost across the bridge when I ran into the second mule train. The leader backed up and I sat on the top rail of an iron fence next to the river as the mules passed. Passed a hilarious sign that read: “Tired, hot, nearly expired? Jump in Bright Angel creek!”
I encountered a doe on the trail close to Phantom Ranch. Lynn was slightly behind me and saw the doe with her two fawns. She is cold blooded and tolerates the heat much better – she kept her pants and jacket on until Phantom ranch. We restocked our water supply, had a light snack, and headed up the North Kaibob trail about 10 AM.
I love the section of North Kaibob called “the Box.” The Bright Angel creek runs through a winding, narrow canyon and the rock walls rise steeply on either side. This section is also generally shaded. Eventually Bright Angel canyon opens up and we were slogging gradually uphill in the direct sunlight. The high for the day was 97. This section reminds me of the “never ending ridge” on Skyline from the 4400 foot level to flat rocks. Just about the time I thought my head would pop off my body (visualize a meat thermometer), we reached a shaded stream before Cottonwood camp and had lunch. This is the same place Kathy and I stopped for lunch last year.
We stocked up on more water at Cottonwood camp. The serious climbing started after crossing the bridge past Cottonwood camp. Since we were here earlier in the day compared to my trip last year, this section was not shaded. It was all I could do to maintain a plodding pace uphill – there was no power in my legs. Fortunately, Lynn felt good and was able to enjoy the beauty of the trail.
I finally reached the North Kaibob trail head at 4:15 – 21 miles and abut 6,000 feet of climbing in 11 hot hours. Lynn’s husband (aka Saint Bruce) drove from the South rim to the North rim and picked us up at the trail head. We showered quickly and sat down for dinner at 5 PM. The next available dinner reservation wasn’t until 8:30. By that time, the lights were off in our cabin as we sought the tranquility of sleep.
Bruce and Lynn dropped me off at the trailhead at 5 AM. Lynn’s legs were sore and she didn’t want to mar her first Grand Canyon hike with an injury. I rationalized that 1) I would be spending most of my day hiking downhill (14 miles to Phantom Ranch) and 2) the climb up Bright Angel would be easier than Thursday’s climb up North Kaibob. I also stripped my day pack to the bare essentials. Dropping down North Kaibob in the dark was a blast – I saw a plethora of headlamps and keyed in on catching groups as I descended. The sun and temperature rose far too soon for my comfort – even my hands were sweating from holding onto my hiking poles.
I reached Phantom Ranch at 10 AM and stopped to refuel, hydrate, and treat the start of blisters on my right foot. After an hour, I realized that I couldn’t delay the inevitable any longer and headed out into the heat of the day – the high at Phantom was 94. I crossed the Colorado again and suffered through the brutal sandy stretch where the Bright Angel trail rises and falls next to the river. I was over-heating by the time the trail turned inland and started to climb in earnest. I stopped at several streams to drop my body temperature as I climbed and tried not to think about the wonderful, cool weather that Kathy and I had last year. I finally reached Indian Gardens and marveled at the extent of the carnage. Desiccated hikers were sprawled out on all of the benches in the shade. Apparently I wasn’t the only person melting in the heat.
I restocked my water and continued on to the 3 Mile Rest House. Shortly after leaving Indian Gardens, I heard footsteps behind me and stepped off the trail to allow a train of English hikers go past. They were still at the Rest House when I arrived and kindly offered me a seat in the shade. I thanked them but grabbed water and kept going. I knew that a stop would just prolong the agony. The English Express soon passed me again. Thankfully, Lynn hiked down to offer moral support for the final 2.8 miles. The cumulative heat, fatigue, and effort of the climb conspired against my gut. This made staying fueled and hydrated difficult. It took an hour to get from the 1.5 Mile Rest House to the Bright Angel trailhead and 12 hours to cover the 24 miles. I celebrated my survival with a Fat Tire beer and long soak in an old-fashioned footed bathtub. We finished off the day with an excellent meal in the Arizona room at the Bright Angel lodge.
That night, the wind picked up and clouds rolled in. It started to rain when I reached I-40 and continued to rain almost all the way to Kingman. If only we’d been a few days later. On the positive side, I never noticed my ankle
Miles of smiles,
Ellen
Ah, the benefits of suffering! 