Friday, May 16th Skyline Trip Report

[James]

After planning to hike Skyline for a long time I was finally able to go on Friday, May 16th. This was my first time up Skyline and I can only describe it as indescribable. Stepping through the hole in the wall at the museum is like stepping through a portal to another world. And doing this at night enhanced this effect dramatically.

Though the trail is long and strenuous (understatement), the lights of Palm Springs, the changing landscape, and ever changing coyote scat (wide variety of dietary habits up there), and finally, the long awaited cool breezes higher up make it one of the most exhilarating hikes I've ever taken.

To be sure, you MUST heed the words of caution given by the Skyline veterans on this board. Do not take this trail lightly.

Below is the approx. timeline Friday:

1:00am - Left museum, I don't know the temperature exactly but it was hot, maybe in the 80s. Tried to stay right at most of the forks up to the picnic tables yet still found this steep, dry, rocky section to be a little tricky. The noise from nearby bars and nightclubs was still in the air over the city.

1:29am - Picnic tables, still quite warm but an occasional breeze and a few big gusts. The city noises began fading replaced with the sounds of the desert night, various scurrying in the brush, owls and other night birds, and the occasional pair of glowing eyes off in the canyons. Took photos of the warnings on the boulders and moved on.

3:30am - passed the round pile of rocks in the middle of the trail (I believe this is where people leave notes). It was a crystal clear night and the stars were brilliant (especially during the sections where you get behind hills away from the lights of Palm Springs). The bright light at Mountain Station, although miles away, is like a beacon both calling you to continue while providing some reassurance that you're on the right path. The light at the top came and went as I passed through the many downhill sections and around hills. At every rise it would reappear and I would try to imagine that it looked closer.

4:58am - What I think was Flat Rocks (large expanses of flat rock). At this point, the trail veered right away from the canyon and started a big uphill push. During this very steep climb, the trail gets loose and finally, sandy, and did I mention steep? Although the sun was not up yet, I could turn off the headlamp during this climb, as it got lighter.

?am - Sunrise. After getting to the trees, passing under the logs, and about the same elevation as Coffman's Crag (was now clearly in view in front of me), the sun finally peaked over the hills to the east. I neglected to check the time because I stood in awe at the Salton Sea in the distance. The dawn was as clear as the night, truly a lucky break.

5:45am (I think) - Coffman's Crag. Took a break and took in more great views, awesome drop offs and the lip of Long Valley above.

Starting up the final steep incline toward Long Valley I quickly ran into human feces and toilet paper. Much earlier in the hike I had passed a "pile" that was neither coyote nor mountain lion but could have been dog but certainly looked human. I just stepped over, hoped it was animal and kept going. After seeing the disgusting sight right on the trail at Coffman's, who knows what was on the trail down lower. I took a stick and moved it off the trail and tried to cover it with scree but the steep, loose dirt and rocks made that difficult. When first released, the Wag Bag used in the Sierras was met with both resistance and acceptance. Inevitably though, these "accidents" show up on trails. But to be so close to Long Valley, it was hard to believe someone could not just wait a little longer to get to the tram (or at least to a more private place).

6:15am - Long Valley. After that final brutal ascent from Coffman's I was almost incredulous that this was the top. The break at Coffman's was necessary as that final ascent is almost cruel after such a steep, demanding hike. Once you reach Long Valley, you almost can't believe you're there, in part of my mind I thought, ok, what's the catch, where's the next uphill section. But no, there I was strolling leisurely down the dirt path toward the tram.

No sunlight in Long Valley yet but plenty of light and what appeared to be the remnants of a very light fog lifting. Hardly perceptible but it appeared to be fog. This had not been visible anywhere during the night since it was so clear. Not a soul around, the only sounds were the creek running through where my family and I had been sledding and building snowmen back in February (after taking the tram up).

Took an extended break to have a snack. It finally dawned on me that it was cold. Cold to the point where my hands were getting stiff and I knew it was time to move. The cold actually gave me incentive to try for the summit (that and not wanting to sit there for hours before the first tram). At the ranger station I filled out the permit and made sure everything in the pack was where it should be.

6:45 - Left for the summit. The sun was creeping down into Long Valley but the wind was still a bit cool. The trail is still buried under snow in places but was easy to find on the other side of the snow patches. However, after Round Valley, once the trail turned uphill toward Wellman's Divide, the entire slope is snow covered and the trail nowhere in sight. Scanning the ridge and what I might face if I had to turn back, I made for the ridge over the top of the snow trying to follow footprints. Many footprints went off in directions that did not look right or they went back down and in many cases they just vanished.

At the ridge, I stopped and just said "wow" to the view over into the snow covered mountains on the other side. By this time, that breeze was now a substantial wind. I scanned the way I had come up noting where I would have to down climb if it came to that then moved along the ridge and found the summit trail sign (2.3 miles to the summit from this point). I forgot to note the time.

8:30am - About a mile or so into the trail to the summit from Wellman's, and after crossing yet still more snow patches covering the trail, I came to a point where I could not find the trail as the snow covering the trail went on and on. I checked in ever widening circles but there was nothing, no trail, no footprints. I'd summited via Marion Mountain trail last year but had never been up this trail from the tram. I'd seen plenty of photos and read reports, and knew about snow fields after Round Valley. Getting to Wellman's though had been a fun snow climb but trying to get through this snow field so close to the summit was a route-finding challenge. After 1-1/2 hours of stomping, sliding, sloshing and post-holing, it became frustrating and tiresome. The sun drenched rocky summit ridge was directly above me but I knew there might not be any climbers coming up or down for some time that I could follow. I scanned the ridge and wondered about a ridge climb up but after gaining 10,000 feet since 1am, and the fact that the ridge was completely snow-covered, and knowing I had to be back home by a certain time that afternoon, I decided against it.

Starting down...the disappointment and frustration made the way back go quickly as I was now driven by the thought of something to eat other than trail food! During the night in the middle of some of the tougher uphill sections, it was so strenuous, I'd thought this would be a one and done kind of thing. On the way back to the tram from the snow though, I knew I was hooked and would be back. Perhaps the fall when it is cooler yet before the first snows.

11:00am (approx.) - Getting tram ticket, calling a cab and back at my car and on the freeway around 11:30am. Very surprised that Palm Springs this morning was no hotter and maybe even a little cooler than when I started out some 10-1/2 hours earlier. Driving back westward the temperatures climbed higher, which was also surprising.

Can't wait for next time.

[Cy Kaicener]

Great trip report. You made excellent time and was right to turn back when you did. The main challenge is "just" getting to the tram. Isn't it great hiking in the dark and not having to cope with the heat.
I used to be fast, but now I am just half-fast

[James]

Absolutely! Love night hiking. It was so hot at the start that I could not imagine hiking that in the daytime. Thanks to all for the great advice and making this a most memorable hike.

[Hikin_Jim]

Great (and inspiring) TR!

[zippetydude]

Hi James. Hey, I can't quite put my finger on exactly what it is that made your trail report such good reading, but you write well.

Oh, and great job on your hike too!

See you out there on the trail...or perhaps at the peak (!) once all this ice and snow have melted off.

z

[KathyW]

James: Yes, nice report and very good time.

Cy - at least you used to be fast. I've never been fast and now I'm even slower.

If it's cool enough on May 31st I think I'm going to give the hike at least up to the tram a try, but I'll have to watch the weather because I don't handle heat well - I got awful cramps last year one day when I was above Flat Rock on a hot day.

Are the cacti blooming along the trail or is it too late for that?

Kathy

[James]

Zip: Thanks for compliment! There is such amazing scenery out there even at night it just all stuck in my mind.

Kathy: The big barrell cactus I saw had some blooms on them but they looked a bit shriveled. Maybe it was because it was nighttime or maybe the season is changing.

Hope to get back up there again soon.

J