Skyline Winter Climb Advice Needed

[john m]

I would like to ask the more experienced on this board for advice in hiking Skyline in winter conditions of snow and ice. I just want to learn in more detail exactly what the issues are.

I am 51, have done Skyline 2x in the fall (first time with Cy, thanks Cy!) and found it to be a fun, challenging hike but not that hard. I have been up SJ about 30 times from the other side in Idlywild and have dayhiked Mt Whitney many times. However, my winter experience consists of basically a 3 day group climb of Mt Rainier last year. I own and know how to use an ice ax and I have mountaineering boots and crampons. I'm very conservative and carry a PLB at all times when hiking or climbing. I would only attempt to do this when the forecast is clear and sunny for days. I'd even bring along a -40 winter sleeping bag and bivy in case I needed to spend the night. I'm in excellent climbing condition. Given those facts, what are the worst risk factors? What am I missing? Help me out!

My biggest worry is that I wouldn't have much of a trail to follow. What else am I missing? I know it is icy and steep, will crampons suffice? Is it that it will take much longer than a snowless hike?

I really appreciate whatever advice is given, Happy New Year to everyone on the board and thanks!

[guest]

Hi John,
I appreciate your concern & asking the important questions.
I hike Skyline in most conditions, and have done it way to many times to remember.
You have covered most of what you need to know already. Besides the steep, possibly icy conditions, (with plenty of exposure to bout, even though it dosen't look like it in the dry), route finding is the other big challenge.
If you read some of the latest attempts on Skyline, many were unable to find the route & the correct chute to ascend for the last few hundred vertical. Some had to down-climb on of the chutes, after disturbing the snow on the way up, which is risky.

I climbed it Tues, and there are several new downed trees to make it more difficult to follow.

I think the biggest risk is multiple layers of snow & ice build-up on the steep areas of the final 1,000 ft. One can punch through the top layer & hit underlaying ice quickly, which can throw you off balance, hence a real rapid reaction or self arrest will be imperative.

There's a couple of layers presently (somewhat predictable), but we have 2 back to back storms heading here as we speak.

I would hold off for a while, see how the conditions develop, and check back on this board.

Your experience & fitness level are needed if one is even considering this trail in winter / early spring. Ice ax & 10 pointers & self arrest experience are needed.

I climbed Whitney late Sept, a week after a early storm dropped a couple ft. which left hard-packed & icy conditions above 12k, but I still feel the last part of Skyline are at least as risky.

If some of us make a proper route up it after the new storms, it would help tremendously, but many of us just take a break for it and wait till spring.

ss

[john m]

Thanks very much for the insight. I'm just trying to figure out what the risks are and manage them in advance.

You mention that there is exposure that doesn't seem like it in the dry and that might be what I'm missing. When I climbed up the last 1,000 feet on a dry, sunny day, it seemed relatively simple. Perhaps I don't have enough winter experience to imagine what this section is like with a lot of snow and ice. My Whitney experience is all dry but I have read many accounts of winter climbs straight up the switchback section or glissading down. If you tell me the exposure is greater on Skyline than Whitney in winter, that gives me pause.

I'm going to take your advice and pass for now and wait for a time where the storms stop, an easy to follow trail gets built up again, and the forecast is for high pressure for a week, giving me plenty of time to just go back down if need be!

[halhiker]

Like any time you're dealing with winter conditions, the risks will vary. Sometimes it will be ice and sometimes post holing through deep snow. Personally, I would prefer the ice (with proper equipment, of course).

It is hard to access a single scenario in relation to the Skyline. There may be times with the snow level down to 4000 feet where finding the right path will be the difficulty and others where icy conditions on the north side near the top will be your biggest obstacle.

A friend of mine, Carl, has talked to me about going up and scouting the possibility of finding a route that goes to the southern side of the ridge instead of going toward Coffman just for the purpose of doing a winter ascent of Skyline. He has done it and found it tough but his problem was wading through waist deep snow. If you've never done that, it's not a lot of fun. I did it up Snow Creek one year and it sucked.

With proper equipment, I don't think it'd be a problem; just start early so you don't end up at the top late in the day and end up climbing at night. And a 40 below bag is overkill. Your biggest risk then might be sweating to death.

Hal

[guest]

Hi John,

Hal has some good advise & experience, I may have over-stated the comparison w/ Whitney, it has some big exposure as well, and longer chutes to pick up speed if one was unfortunate enough to slide.

It's been raining through the night here in PS, so there's gotta be plenty of new snow up higher, snowshoeing to the peak of San Jac might be fun now, if not a tough slog through deep snow!

ss