Crampon and boot advice needed! [A plea]

[climberslacker]

Hey guys!

I really need your combined wisdom right now. I just bought G-12 newmatic crampons with the expectation that my boots (wich do have a very sizable heel welt) would work with them. But Lo and behold, as can usually be expected by the north face, that welt is actually too high to work with the binding... waaaaay to high, even with the binding set to as big as it can get. So the way I see it (if you see it another way please speak up) I have a few options, Send them back and get the new classic, and then get new boots and newmatic bindings later, or get new boots ( Looking at Trango S Evo GTX) wich I will need eventually anyways. So what would you do. Please remember that I am 15 and have very limited cash right now. Also, I am open to boot recomendations, with the main criterion being crampon compatability, then waterproofness, then durability and warmth.

Please, I am looking for advise, and any help would help!

-CS

(for the record, this is also posted on summit post as I need as much advise as I can get)

[Vnthali]

I was in the same boat you are finding yourself in now this time last year. I went for a less technical crampon (Black Diamond Contact strap crampons) which work well with my Merrel Gore-tex hiking boots. The strap design is easy to use and remains secure over the long haul. With boots you get what you pay for in quality and features. Personally, I think buying the really expensive LaSportiva mountaineering boots is not necessary though. While I am not the voice of experience on this site, I can tell you that owning crampons is not the same thing as truly knowing how to properly use them. Check out "Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills (7th Ed.) which provides excellent advice on crampon and boot selection and proper use. This book was recommended to me on this site and its a lot less expensive than a new pair of crampons or boots. Since my first outing, I've done some serious reading and pactice in safe terrain. My very first outing with them was a learning experience I don't care to repeat (see my first post for details). Also get yourself an ice axe.

[climberslacker]

Sorry if I made it unclear, I have read Freedom Of the hills in its entirety once, and then probably again just in refrencing. I have also been climbing for 7 years and am just making a break into alpine stuff. I have also taken the winter travel class from SMI. But I do want to get a new pair of boots as I am about grown out of the current ones that don't work with my points. The reason for not immediatly exchanging them, is that I would like the ability to do a pitch of ice every now and again.

-Jace

[guest]

My suggestion is to return the 12 pts, get a pair of contact strap cramp-ons, since they work with most decent boots, no welts required.
That La Sportiva looks like a nice all around boot, but at your age your feet are probably still growing, that boot is fairly pricey, & you may out grow it soon.
I'd consider a mid-weight boot, look around, should be able to find something nice for $100 to $150.
The Vasque Wasatch, Asolo Fugitive GTX or Asolo FSN 95 GTX, or maybe La Sportiva Thunder II GTX, there's many other good brands, and boots are a very personal thing, so if at all possible, find a place to try them on!

I prefer a boot that has some flex, since chances are you won't be using them primarily for cramp-on application.

Thats IMHO 2 cents, I'm sure others here have some good recommendation,

happy trails,

ss

[EMan]

It all begins and ends with your boots.
Will you have 1 pair for winter or 1 pair all season?

If the boots don't fit well, the 'pons issue is moot!
I suggest you resolve that issue 1st, and get appropriate 'pons afterwards.

Since I have hobbit feet, my options were limited. Contacts for my hikers and clipons for my ski boots & Invernos.

[climberslacker]

I was thinking one pair for winter, and I have one for other seasons. My current winter boots (that are not compatable with the 'pons) are on their way out. So Really, it would probably be best to just look for a new pair of boots. What do you guys use?

-Jace

[zippetydude]

I've found great $120 Merrell boots for about $60 on sale at half price (now is probably a great time if you search around a little bit online) that are solid, waterproof, and flexible enough that I can run in them if I like. I've used them with strap-on crampons for years, and they do great for anything in the local mountains here. If you're planning on climbing waterfalls in the near future, this won't work. But other than your mention of ice climbing, I think simple, flexible options work best.

Here's something else for you to consider. You may not want a rigid boot at all (again, unless the ice climbing is going to be a big thing for you). They're harder to hike with and impossible to run with. (I don't know if you're a trail runner at all, but you can sure cover a lot more trail in less time. This may not matter to some, but it matters a lot if you're either 1) worried about the sun going down on you, when things get dangerously icy and it's harder to find your way, or 2) you don't have all day, and it's either finish the run/hike by a certain time or stay home. I hate having to miss out on a trip out in the wilderness, so it's worth it to move a little faster to be able to go play.)

Anyway, you're young and you're going to grow out of boots several times. I'd say get crampons that you can wear with any boot, and get quality boots that are comfortable and fit your budget.

z

[rjt]

Check out sierratradingpost.com in the climbing section. There are alot of mountaineering boots on sale right now.

[KathyW]

REI has some good advice:

http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/crampons+snow+ice+climbing.html

If you're planning on doing a lot of snow climbing, it makes sense to invest in a good pair of mountaineering boots. The stiff sole will help you more than the extra weight will hurt you and there are some great lightweight mountaineering boots out there these days. If you want crampons that fit with any boot or shoe you own, or will buy, then get crampons with with strap on bindings.

[SoCalJim]

I'd recommend you check out Zappos.com. That's where I bought my Kayland (Italian bootmaker) mountaineering boots. They have a large selection and return shipping is FREE - as long as you haven't put any wear on the boots. Order a pair of boots you think might work for you, try your crampons on them, wear them around the house (probably without the crampons). If they don't work for you, return for free and try another.