Info Requested for North Face San Jacinto

[EnFuego]

Hello. I'm fairly new to the San Jacinto scene. Rather, I should say, my experience in the San Jacinto's is limiited. I've done the peak several times from the Tram and a couple from Idylwild, but they have all been on the basic hiking trails, and only one or two during the winter.

I'm trying to plan some winter "alpine" style ascents in preparation for a big trip coming up in April. I'd like to gather information on The North Face route.

If anybody has done the North Face in last couple years, I'd like to know where you can park near Snow Creek? Is this route done typically in a single day? Do you go in and out on same route, or do you take tram down and have shuttle vehicle parked there?

I understand DWA owns some of the property nearby, but I actually work with them quite often, and can get permission to be back there.

One last request, if anybody has been to the North Face since January 1, 2009, could you please provide me with what the conditions were like? heavy snow coverage? Little snow coverage? etc.

I really appreciate any help any of you can provide. Thank you all in advance.

~EnFuego

[Cy Kaicener]

I dont know of anyone who has done it this year, but a fast strong climber called Rick Kent did it last year. The link for his trip report is below. They say that the best time to do it is April or May with another strong climber with a rope - over two days. When I did an exploratory hike on the lower section I parked before the power station about half way up Snow Creek road. They dont want anyone to park opposite this structure. I followed a faint use trail close to a water pipe.
http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/3 ... -2008.html

[kevin trieu]

Two of my friends did it this past weekend. Firm snow until 10K'. Soft snow patches higher. Park near Snow Creek. Single push is best but a couple of friends have done as an overnighter. Most take the tram down so shuttling is required. You can take a taxi back to your car near Snow Creek but I believe it'll cost you about $50. There's a class 4 to the right that you can take to bypass the chockstone/waterfall. They took the left fork above 10k. When I did it last year, I believe I took the left fork also. The right fork brings you right at the summit. Good luck.

Just curious, what are you climbing in April?

[halhiker]

It can be done in one or two days. If you do it in one, make sure to start EARLY--like three AM. One year, I started at around 6 and the snow in the middle softened up so much I had to posthole in waist deep snow for hours. It was not fun.

I've also done it in two days, which is very casual and fun. We camped just below the chockstone and hit the summit before noon.

[ajwoodzy]

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&saddr=&daddr=33.89896,-116.679826&hl=en&geocode=&mra=mi&mrsp=0&sz=15&sll=33.898917,-116.679654&sspn=0.024365,0 This is where people generally start at.

[Rick Kent]

Be sure you know what you're getting into. While this is the finest route of its kind in southern Calif it's not trivial. It can be rather committing and as always conditions can vary greatly. You need to be completely confident with self-arrest. Once above the chockstone the route is very sustained. Summitpost.com has some additional info on the route.

Oh, and don't forget to read this classic report:

http://home.flash.net/~cfoster2/climbin ... Creek.html

-Rick

[backcountrybrad]

Just curious if anybody's tried skiing or boarding out on snow creek. I realize the hike out with equipment would be exhausting below the snow line and tricky with the level 4 sections. Any thoughts from those of you that have climbed it?

[Rick Kent]

I can't recall for certain but skiing or boarding Snow Creek may have been done before. If the conditions were right you certainly could (if you're extemely good). That's the big problem though. If it's a hard icy surface it would be suicidal but if it's soft enough it could be done. Some of it's fairly narrow though so not a lot of room for turns. The class 3/4 section to get above the chockstone I don't think would be overly problematic except for the board/skiis snagging on all the low branches. I think the climbing there is only class 3 if you find the easiest route up the right side thru the trees. You wouldn't necessarily need to go up Snow Creek anyway. You could take the easy way and come up from the tram and ride down from the summit. The only problem with that is that you wouldn't know what the conditions would be. The uppermost chutes are pretty damn steep. You could possibly tame it down a bit by taking one the chutes further east which aren't quite as steep. Oh and another thing to watch out for as that as it gets later in the season crevasse-like cracks and holes tend to open up in the lower section.

-Rick

[Cy Kaicener]

A lot of people are itching to do this route. See this link (Avalanche Conditions)
http://www.mtsanjacinto.info/viewtopic.php?t=1288

[NormaR]

Rick,

thanks for the link to the snow creek story. i had not read that one. a must read, for sure.

i asked a friend recently if she would climb snow creek with me (she has done it several times.) she said at this point she was not sure, she wants to see my skills on more alpine climbs first. but she did say, this is not a climb to down climb if you feel you can't do it. when you commit to this climb, you commit.

just wanted to mention that.